WOOD GRAIN, MAKER OF TIME
WOVEN DESIGN - JACQUARD WEAVING

The source of the grain, the tree’s annual growth rings, were a marker of time. Like wood, the structure of the textile is a record of its creation.


Over three tests, I explored ways to refine the structure, texture, and visual effects of the fabric through various techniques and materials. The primary goal of this project in textile part was to create textiles that allow light to pass through the lighter areas of the grain pattern, adding a dynamic interplay of light and shadow to the fabric.

My primary focus during this process was on three key aspects:
  • Adjusting warp and weft ratios and sequences to experiment with different textures.
  • Exploring the characteristics of various yarn materials
  • Creating pocket structures by testing the effects of tie-downs.



double weave structure test 01. / Jacquard woven

01. First Test:
In the first test, I started with a simple image and experimented with two types of weft. I used a gauze structure to create an open texture and incorporated heavy wool, which I later cut after washing. This method resulted in unique, sculptural effects, but the light interaction was minimal due to the density of the texture.



02. Second Test:
In the second test, I introduced four warps to create a richer grain pattern and further explored a wider range of warp sequences and weft ratios. While the openness of the texture improved, the image appeared too pixelated, making it difficult to achieve clean transitions where light could pass through.



Gauze structure Test 03. / Jacquard woven

03. Third Test:
For the third test, I simplified the image to emphasize the grain pattern and refined the structure and material choices. By using lighter yarns strategically, I achieved better light permeability in the brighter areas, successfully creating a subtle but impactful interaction between the fabric and natural light.



  •    


Final Process:
After weaving, I washed and then cut the back part of lighter section. The lighter sections were carefully designed to maintain translucency, enabling the intended light interaction. 





Weaving All

prev

© 2025 Dora HyunJung Kim. All rights reserved.